SHOPPING CART: 0 ITEMS  MERCHANDISE TOTAL: $0.00         Bubba Novells Fish Recipes 1  California Freshwater Lakes 1  De La Rue Aussi Fish Recipes 1  Fish Stories 0  Fish weight calculator 0  Fishing Jokes 2  Fishing tips and tricks 7  Freshwater Bass Fishing Tips 16  General fishing articles 0  Knots to use 2  Moon Phases 0  Rigging techniques 1  Trolling techniques 2  Weather in Cabo San Lucas 1  [other] 2  1-15 | 16-30 | 31-36  Aug 12, 2003; 10:50AM - Jiggin' It  Category:  Freshwater Bass Fishing Tips  Author Name:  Steven Narup  Author E-mail:  sdnbassproaol.com@2catchfish.com Tip&Trick Description 1: Jigs come in all sorts of shapes, colors, sizes, and even skirt materials. There are a bunch of different ways to fish them as well. However, to be able to catch them when the fishing is tough, you have to be very versatile. In this article, I will go through different ways of fishing jigs and I will begin to get you acquainted with this wonderful lure called a jig, in this little guide called “Jiggin’ It”. Let me first give you a little bit of “background” about jigs. Jigs come made with many different kinds of materials. Just to name a few hair, tinsel and silicone. However, in this guide we will mostly be talking about silicone jigs. Silicone jigs are much easier too fish. Being that when they get wet, they become waterproof making them easier to slide through thick vegetation. To help aid the jig going through the thick milfoil some people use scent. Jigs come in many different shapes and size, they even come with different shaped heads for different types of applications. They come made with a flipping, swimming, and even a stand-up type head. They also come in an array of different weight heads. Jigs even come in countless colors and even different shades. It is best that when you first start out fishing a jig you should stick to basic colors. Some of the basic jig colors would include brown and orange, moss green and even black and blue. When selecting a jig by its size you want to use as less weight as possible. Using less weight will give the jig a more realistic action and presentation. You also need less weight because bass will normally hit the jig when it is on the fall, and using less weight will help the jig fall slower. While we are talking about fall rate lets talk a little about jig trailers. Plastic trailers work great for cooler water, when the fish are more active. Jigs with pork are a deadly combination when the water temperature drops below 60. When you pick a trailer, you should keep in mind to match the trailer color to the color of the jigs skirt. Now lets get into how to fish a jig. There are many different ways to fish them. One of the more popular ways to fish them is to do a hop and swim type retrieve. When you do this, you should make a long cast and then let the jig rest on the bottom for a few seconds, and then slowly lift your rod tip and let the jig fall back to the bottom. Then after a few hops you swim the jig a few feet, then begin to hop the jig again. This hop and swim method has produced greatly for many people all throughout the country. Another way to fish a jig is to just hop the jig on the bottom or even drag it. However, one of the deadliest ways to fish a jig is to swim it close to the bottom or above a weed line. A seven-foot heavy action rod will give the jig enough action to entice big bass, be sure to pick a rod with a soft tip and enough backbone to horse the big boys out of the thick stuff. The last technique I am going to cover is flipping and pitching. To do this you should flip the jig into weed pockets or into shoreline cover. When you do this, a good choice is a seven and a half foot heavy action rod and thirty-five pound monofilament. The heavy action rod will be stout enough to pull a five pound bass out the roughest spots you can flip your jig into. This is just a little guide on how to fish a jig. If you experiment with different ways to fish them and you find out which technique the bass wants, you will have a killer day out on the water!  Aug 5, 2003; 10:29PM - Bimini Twist  Category:  Knots to use  Author Name:  Steve vonBrandt/S&K Guide Service  Author E-mail:  swvbbass@aol.com Tip&Trick Description 1: Bimini Twist Used primarily for offshore trolling and double-line leaders. A Bimini twist creates a long loop of line which is stronger than the the line itself. A Bimini twist is a simple method of doubling your fishing line in order to prevent chafing or to create the necessary loop in order to attach a wind-on leader. A short Bimini twist (up to five feet) can easily be accomplished by one person. To tie a Bimini twist longer than five feet takes two people, although it could be done alone with a lot of practice. This knot is a 100% knot, meaning, it retains 100% or the original strength of the line being used. 1. Measure a little more than twice the length you will want for the double-line. Bring end back to standing line and hold together. Rotate end of loop 18 - 23 times, by twisting it. 2. Slowly spread the loop to slide twists together about 10' below tag end. You want to spread the lines evenly, keeping the same angle on each side, so they do not wrap on top on one another. Step both feet through loop and bring it up around knees so pressure can be placed on column of twists by spreading knees your apart. It is easiest to learn the knot with two people so one person can hold and spread the lines while the other person ties the knot. Bimini twists over 5 feet long really need two people to tie properly, unless you have 8' legs! 3. With twists now snug together, hold standing line in one hand with tension just slightly off the vertical position. With other hand, move tag end to position at right angle to twists. Keeping tension on loop with knees, gradually ease tension of tag end so it will roll over the column of twists, beginning just below the upper twist. (as the line continues to spread apart the tag end will wrap back down over top of the twists.) 4. Spread legs apart slowly to maintain pressure on loop. Steer tag end into a tight spiral coil as it continues to roll over the twisted line. It take a practice, but avoid the twists jumping back over top. The twists should lay side by side and coil down nicely as shown to the right. 5. When spiral of tag end has rolled over column of twists, continue keeping knee pressure on loop and pinch the end of knot to keep it from unraveling. Put a finger in crotch of line where loop joins knot to prevent slippage of last turn. Now make a simple half-hitch with tag end around nearest leg of loop and pull up tight. 6. With half-hitch holding knot, release knee pressure but keep loop stretched. Using remaining tag end, take half-hitch around both legs of loop, but do not pll tight. 7. Make 2-3 more turns with the tag end around both legs of the loop, winding inside the bend of line formed by the loose half-hitch and toward the knot. Pull tag end slowly, forcing the loops to form in a spiral. 8. Moisten spirals and pull loops tight against main knot. Leave about 1/4' of a tag end when trimming. Keep practicing, it takes some time.  Aug 5, 2003; 10:26PM - Albright Knot  Category:  Knots to use  Author Name:  Steve vonBrandt/S&K Guide Service  Author E-mail:  swvbbass@aol.com Tip&Trick Description 1: Albright Knot The albright knot is most commonly used for joining lines of different diameter, for creating shook leaders and when Bimini Twist is tied in the end of lighter casting line. It is also used to connect monofilament to wire. 1.Create a loop in the tag end of the heavier line, then feed the tag end of the lighter line through it. 2. Bring the tag end up and over the loop to make your first turn. 3. Make a series of turns around all three stands, keeping it as tight as possible. 4. make a minimum of 10 turns, bringing the tag end out of the end of the heavier line's loop. 5. To tighten the knot, pull the standing part of the heavier line. At the same time, slide the turns toward the loop end. 6. When turns are in a neat position, pull both standing parts to make the knot tight. Trim ends.  Aug 5, 2003; 09:39PM - What To Do During Drawdowns  Category:  Freshwater Bass Fishing Tips  Author Name:  Steve vonBrandt/S&K Guide Service  Author E-mail:  swvbbass@aol.com Tip&Trick Description 1: What to do during Drawdowns By Steve VonBrandt One of the biggest obstacles an angler can face is finding, and then catching, fish in Big Lakes or Reservoirs where the water levels fluctuate dramatically, such as in Spruce Run, in New Jersey, in the recent past. Many lakes or Reservoirs, can rise or fall as much as 10 feet. This happened to us at a tournament in Bull Schoals, MO, a few years ago. There are many factors that cause these fluctuations. Bodies of water that are dammed by hydroelectric plants, have upsurges of power in the extremely hot or cold periods of weather, that cause them to run more turbines and the level of the water drops. Sometimes it is a drought, and even the smaller bodies of water here in the Northeast get drastically low at times. On some lakes, in the East, they lower the water levels for irrigation, to build new launching ramps, to try to control weed growth, and to keep the ice from cracking their docks in the winter. Changing water levels can put even the best angler to the test. Some other reasons they lower the water levels are due to an effort to try to restore the sportfishing to some lakes or Reservoirs that have suffered a decline, due to poor water quality. This happens a lot when the bottom of the lake, which is usually rock or mud, accumulate to the point of oversaturation along the shoreline, and the vegetation gets too dense. This can be from excess phosphorus, nitrogen, and other things from chemical sewage treatment plants. These drawdowns kills off the excess vegetation. I fished lakes in Florida, Missouri, and right here in Delaware, such as Diamond in Milford, and Hearns in Seaford. Becks Pond also is drawn sometimes, along with other Delaware, New Jersey, and Maryland waters. 'What To Do' If the drawdown happens quickly, the bass, and the minnows they feed on, will head to deeper water. Look for the deepwater points, any offshore humps, creekbeds, stump fields, submerged islands, and docks the go out into deeper water. Since small baitfish and Crawfish are the main diet of bass almost anywhere, the lure and color choices you make should reflect that. Whether it's lipped or lipless crankbaits, blade baits, crankbaits, jigs, flukes, or Jerkbaits, they should match the forage in the lake or Reservoir. I like to use G. Loomis rods, and Shimano reels, in spinning, and baitcasting models, in 6 1/2 to 7 foot lengths, with 10-14 pound line. 'Develop A Pattern' The bass are going to be on the move in these low water periods, so you have to be versatile. Vary your retrieves, working the edges of points and humps from shallow to deep. If the banks are gravely, or sloping type banks, then we generally use a jig, and other crawfish type baits. I like to cast to the banks, and stairstep the lure down. This has worked well for me in many New Jersey, and Missouri Reservoirs and Lakes. Keep your eyes open for old duckblinds,and docks that border deep water. They will block the sunlight, and provide good ambush points. After a big drawdown, we take our cameras to the lake and take plenty of pictures. This can really help later, and teach you what certain features look like on the fish locator, since you will have seen it first hand. During the drawdown at Diamond and in Red Mill Pond, we took plenty of photos to compare later. We found offshore humps in many places, which were a bonanza at many times after the water was raised. Drop shot rigs, with a spider grub, Senko, or small worm, worked on the drop-offs in these areas in productive also. Keep your eyes open for any moving water by points when a fast drawdown occurs. Cast downcurrent and work the deeper running crankbaits from top to bottom. I like to use a Carolina rigged bait during these times, in these areas also. Marking the humps, points, and other visible structures on a GPS is a great idea. Combined with first hand knowledge, photos, a map, and GPS points, you can win a tournament or just increase your weekend fishing fun.  Aug 5, 2003; 09:32PM - Hot Weather Bass in Delaware  Category:  Freshwater Bass Fishing Tips  Author Name:  Steve vonBrandt  Author E-mail:  swvbbass@aol.com Tip&Trick Description 1: Hot Weather Bass in Delaware By Steve VonBrandt KILLENS Some of the best ponds during the heat, day or night, have been Millsboro, Killens, and Canal pond. First of the closest ponds to both upper and lower Delaware is Killens in Dover. Killens is located right off rt.13. Turn left onto State Park Road, follow the road around the curve, past the main park entrance, and about a mile and a half down the road is the pond. It has parking for about six to eight trucks with trailers, with an adequate launching ramp. Killens is a state park, and they also rent boats and cabins, but you will find little competition for bass except on the weekends. Most of Killens is 1-5 feet deep at the shoreline, except in the extreme upper end, where it is just inches deep. The lake has an Island in the center with some wood cover and grass. It drops off to 6 feet quickly on the channel side(main lake), and is about 3 feet on the right side. This is a particularly good area to work in the day with 'Senko's' in 4 and 5 inch sizes in black and watermelon on a 3/0WG hook, with 8 & 10 lb test line. In addition, clacker type buzzbaits produce bass in the three to six pound range many times in this area, even in the bright afternoon sun. A Tournament frog is a good choice for the pads especially in the daytime heat. The action will be slower, but you can connect with some big explosions through the grass and pads at times. A Tournament frog is the best choice of topwater, and a 1/2 ounce in black works best all around. Vary the retrieve, both day and night, sometimes letting the frog sit after hitting the water,! as long as 30 seconds, then use a few quick hops. If this doesn't produce, try working it very fast and pausing only once, on the way back to the boat. This is especially effective in large pads. Jigs in black and blue take their fair share of nice bass from here also, but you must be extremely accurate and quiet in your presentations or you will not connect. The bass will be in the heaviest of cover, lying in wait for a slow moving, crippled bait to come overhead. 'GO AT NIGHT' Fishing at night when the water cools to 70-75 degrees, should not frighten you in exploring shallow water right at the drop-offs on the left side of the lake with buzzbaits cast to the main channel edge. Do not be afraid to experiment with some older, forgotten baits, such as a 'Devils Horse', or similar prop baits. They work wonders sometimes in highly pressured lakes. MILLSBORO POND Millsboro Pond is in Sussex County, Delaware, in the town of Millsboro off Isabella and Main Street. It has room for only a few boats, and the launching ramp is very shallow, you can get off all right, but getting back on the trailer can be real tricky. Most of the lake is shallow, with lots of grass. It has several Islands, but the bass go to shallow water at night in the upper end. Buzzbaits are best, but Tournament frogs work well also, in the day and night. Several bass have been caught in the 3 to 6 pound range in the past at night, using the Frog and Senko's mostly in the day. Cast the buzzbait wherever possible at night, it is worth removing the grass. Use Senko's by the lower end of the lake in deeper water in the day, and do not forget to let them sit a long time, raise the pole once or twice, and then cast again. Use these techniques and bring plenty of insect repellent, and you will connect with some lunkers, and many other 2 and 3 pounders. CANAL POND Canal Pond is located by the railroad bridge in the C&D Canal area. Turn right under St.Georges Bridge and follow the road to the pond. It has beautiful structure, pads, and has a deep shoreline with a deep hole. This was where a few years ago, the 30 pound landlocked Striped bass was caught. There are some real Lunker largemouth's still there also. You will need a small cartop boat to fish it, but it is worth the trouble of getting in. It is about 30 acres of real good dropoffs, and structure, where bass up to 9 pounds have been caught. Please remember to practice Catch, Photo, and Release so we can all enjoy the bass fishing there for a long time to come. SENKO's and 4' straight tailed worms work best throughout the year in watermelon and green. At times spinnerbaits and frogs will work, but this is a plastics lake. S & K Guide Service 'OVER 30 YEARS EXPERIENCE IN THE NORTHEAST'LIFE MEMBER B.A.S.S./N.A.F.C.RED MAN/BFL REGIONAL QUALIFIERS1998,99, and 2001 BIG BASS WORLD CHAMPS/DEGAMBLER/BLAZERBASSBAITS/MEPPS/MISTERTWISTER PRO STAFFSwvbbass@aol.com  Aug 5, 2003; 09:26PM - Lake Musconetcong  Category:  Freshwater Bass Fishing Tips  Author Name:  Steve vonBrandt  Author E-mail:  swvbbass@aol.com Tip&Trick Description 1: Lake Musconetcong by Steve Von Brandt Lake Musconetcong is located in northern New Jersey, between Sussex and Morris counties. It is actually part of Hopetcong State Park, and doesn't receive the notariety of its bigger brother Hopetcong or Greenwood Lake or any of the central Jersey waters. Yet, it is one of the best bass waters in northern New Jersey. Years ago, this area was just swampland. It was flooded a long time ago to allow coal transporting barges to make their way to New York City along the Morris canal system. Efforts are being made right now, by the Lake Musconetcong Regional Planning Board, to insure that nature does not reclaim the land as a swamp. Their goal is to preserve the lake's recreational capabilities, bass fishing being one of them. They dredge the lake each year and perform weed harvesting. Even so, in the late spring, the weed growth in Musconetcong is very heavy. Thick mats of vegetation grow almost to the surface in most of the lake, and there are large boulders mixed in this, which makes fishing with a bass boat hard to say the least. More than one trolling shaft and outboard prop have been broken here. You won't see a lot of boaters, anglers, and water skiers here. The lake does not receive the publicity the other lakes do. In fact, even in the spring and summer on weekends, surprisingly few people will be on the water at any one time. The lake is open to the public and has a good launching ramp. It is located right in the town of Netcong. It is a beautiful 329 acre lake loaded with a variety of cover and some real nice bass. There are reasons for the lack of traffic on Musconetcong. For one, it is pretty shallow. It's average depth is about 4 feet, with the deepest water being only 6 feet. Since the bottom of the lake gets a lot of sunlight, there is tremendous weed growth. In fact, this lake is probably the 'weediest' you'll see in this region. The shallow water also allows for rapid warming and cooling of the water compared to deeper lakes, so Musconetcong is usually a few weeks ahead of the other lakes in its seasonal warming and cooling. The daily temperature changes are more pronounced. For the bass, this is an ideal habitat. There is a lot of food and cover to hide in. The bass we catch in Musconetcong are usually about 2 1/2 to 3 pounds on average, and some much bigger have been taken. It is not unusual at all to catch 8-10 bass in the 3 pound range, and one 5 pounds or over on a good day. Last year, we even took a 6 1/4 pounder from here. LURES AND EQUIPMENT: You should have plenty of weedless lures at Musconetcong. Tournament frogs, Bass Rats, Top-Props, and weedless spoons, along with Senkos and worms rigged Texas style are a must. There are some open pockets where you can cast some buzzbaits early in the year, but they disappear quickly as the water starts to warm. Most of the time, we rig the plastics without any weight, as the grass is just too thick. It is actually counterproductive because the water is only 4-5 feet deep. We like to use a spinning rod in 6 - 6 1/2 foot lengths in medium actions and a 6-8 pound test Stren line. In the baitcasters, we use a 7', med/hvy action rod, such as a G. Loomis Crankin' Stick and a Shimano Chronarch, spooled with 20-25 pound test Stren or Spiderline. LOCATIONS: The best areas to work these lures is the edges of the lily pads, right in with the frogs and rats, and the edges of the thick slop and mats of grass that accumulate on the surface. If you get there early in the year, you can learn where all the boulders and underwater objects are, which will aid your boating and fishing later. It is also worth searching the small drop-offs or depressions, many of which are right in the middle of the heavy grass. These areas will concentrate the fish, and at times we catch several from a small area before moving on. Two areas that are really good are the edges of one small island, and the length of the tow path used by the old barge system. If you picture a line drawn from the public ramp to the far side, passing through a point about midway between the island and the right hand shore, you'll have a good idea of where it is. Some other good baits to try in Musconetcong are soft plastic jerk baits like a Zoom, or Fin_S-Shad, or Sluggos and Bass Assassins. All in all, Musconetcong is a good time lake for all. Hopefully, it will be there for many years to come. Practice catch, photo, and release and you can assure the future of fishing and Lake Musconetcong for everyone. Steve Vonbrandt S&K Guide Service / Life member B.A.S.S./N.A.F.C./B.B.R.C./ 1998 B.B.W.C.DE  Aug 5, 2003; 09:20PM - LAKE GASTON  Category:  Freshwater Bass Fishing Tips  Author Name:  Steve vonBrandt/S&K Guide Service  Author E-mail:  swvbbass@aol.com Tip&Trick Description 1: Lake Gaston' Lake Gaston is located in both Virginia and North Carolina. It is a large lake of 20,300 acres. Many professional and amateur tournaments are held here each year, so it receives a good deal of fishing pressure. This is where we competed in the Regional Finals for the Red Man Tournament Trail in 2000. The main species of fish in the lake are largemouth bass, striped bass, and black crappie. Other species include some walleye, chain pickerel, white perch, bluegill, and catfish. The main forage base is composed of alewife, gizzard shad, threadfin shad, and herring. Lake Gaston has relatively stable water levels, and high quality water. There is a good population of largemouth bass, with many large fish available. Most of the bass we catch at Gaston run around 15 inches and about 1 1/2 pounds. We have caught numerous 5 and 6 pounders and some larger fish were caught in the finals. In fact, some of these fish were 8 or 9 pounds. The lake record is 14 pounds 2 ounces, so there are plenty of big bass left in Lake Gaston. Gaston's striped bass fishery depends mainly on stocking. Many striped bass are caught each year that weigh 3 to 8 pounds, but plenty of 20 pounders are taken each year. The walleyes are doing good at Gaston also and many trophy fish of 8, 9 , & 10 pounds are caught. The striped bass make a spawning run each year up to the Roanoke river in April and May. Lake Gaston has a variety of structure also, such as submerged bridges, stumps, submerged roads, and lots of grass in the summer. Most of the water flowing into Lake Gaston comes from the Roanoke river. The visibility in the lake usually ranges from 4-8 feet, although heavy rains can make it muddy. There is a thermocline in Gaston in the summer at about 20-25 feet. In the summer, oxygen levels are low are far down as Great Creek. The bottom is sand and gravel with some flats covered in silt, and clay hillsides. The shoreline is mostly wooded, with some high slopes. North Carolina Power and Virginia Power owns the entire 350 mile shoreline. There are lots of docks, rip rapped banks, and brushpiles. there are really a lot weeds, including elodea, milfoil, and hydrilla. This is especially true in the creek arms and coves, with the deep weedline at about 10 feet. They do treat the grass and also have added some grass carps. The best locations for largemouth bass in the spring (March & April), are the northside creeks, especially Pea Hill and Lizard. They normally turn on first as soon as the water temperature reaches about 50 degrees. The next places that turn on is the southside arms, especially Lees and Poe. We like to fish these areas around the boathouses, rip rap, and laydowns with a chrome / blue rattlin Rapala and a Colorado spinnerbait. We stick to the structure that is in the 5-10 foot deep water. Bass here start to spawn around April 15th, and last till around June. The other areas that can be real productive are Pea Hill and Six-Pound Creeks. Sometimes we use floating worms, and wacky-rig them for some hot action. Another method that works good in these areas is soft plastic jerkbaits. During the tournament, and at other times also, we really caught most of the better fish on these baits. Fin-S-Shads were our top producers. Lake Gaston is known for a good topwater bite. You can really get into some decent bass in these areas on buzzbaits and poppers also. Even Zara Spooks produce well at times. Later in the year, about June, the largemouth like to relate to classic bottom structure like humps, points, and stream channels, or even large beds of hydrilla. These hydrilla beds produce large bass as well as numbers until about September. We usually probe the deep weedline with a Texas-rigged worm or Yamamoto grub. The 'SENKO's' also produce well here. Usually in the mornings and at dark, we twitch jerkbaits over the top of the hydrilla, or even throw buzzbaits. If you like to fish structure, then the main lake points at creek mouths like Pretty Creek are good. Another good spot that has bass on humps and drop offs is Hubquarter and Lyons Creeks. The 15-20 foot deep area are best, as that is where most of the baitfish are. Carolina rigged lizards are a good choice, as are for worms, 'SENKO's' and grubs. At times, we catch good fish here on deeper crankbaits as well. The water starts to cool off a lot in October and November, and the bass start moving back to the 5-10 foot deep water. The best areas at this time are Jimmie's, Lizard, and Six-Pound Creeks. We use a 3/8 to 1/2 ounce jig at this time, with a black/blue or brown/orange 'Uncle Josh Pork trailer'. We like to carry several spinning rods for the lighter lures, in different lengths, from 6-61/2 feet, with a medium action, in a good graphite rod such as a G Loomis. We like Shimano reels, spooled with a 8-10 pound Stren. For baitcasters, we carry a variety of rods, in 6 1/2 to 7 foot lengths, in a medium/hvy action, and a crankbait rod, in 7 foot. We use Lew's and G Loomis rods, and Shimano Chronarch reels on most outfits, with 17-20 pound test Stren. Steve Vonbrandt S&K Guide Service / Life member B.A.S.S./N.A.F.C./B.B.R.C./ 1998 B.B.W.C.DE  Aug 5, 2003; 09:10PM - Greenwood Lake  Category:  Freshwater Bass Fishing Tips  Author Name:  Steve vonBrandt  Author E-mail:  swvbbass@aol.com Tip&Trick Description 1: 'Greenwood Lake' Location Greenwood Lake is located in both New Jersey and New York. There are several launching ramps throughout the lake located in both states. The ramps are well maintained, and can accommodate both large and small boats. In the southern end of the lake, at South Shore Marina, there are a couple ramps, and there are others, all the way to the upper end at Olde Point Marina in New York. Many of the marinas are full service, with restroom facilities, gas, picnic areas, and lodging. When you get about half way up the lake, at Happy Landing Marina, that is where the New York portion starts, in the Sterling Forest area. This is one of New Jersey's larger lakes at 1,920 acres, and it has a maximum depth of 57 feet at full pool. Lake Profile Greenwood Lake is a natural lake, located mostly in the state of New York. Belcher Creek is the main tributary. In the winter, drawdowns lower the water in Greenwood about 2 to 5 feet. The water is Eutropic, with frequent algae blooms in the summer. Visibility is from about 3-6 feet, but sometimes it becomes cloudy after it rains, especially near the shore. In the summer there is a thermocline at about 20 feet. Most of the original lakebed, and the South flat, have muck and silt, but the rest of the lake has a hard bottom, that is mostly boulders and rocks, and the rest is sand and gravel. There are a lot of submerged points and humps throughout the lake. The lake has steep hills, and small wetlands are in the South and north ends. Most of the shoreline is privately owned, and has a lot of houses and marinas. Species Available The main species are largemouth bass, Muskies, and smallmouth bass. There are other species also, such as Chain Pickerel, Yellow Perch, Bluegills, and Walleye. There are also good populations of catfish. There is a lot of pressure at Greenwood, but catch and release fishing allows Greenwood to maintain a good population of Largemouth bass. It is rated among New Jersey top 3 Largemouth bass waters. Most of the bass average around 15 inches, but we have caught seven pounders on occasion. Smallmouth fishing is getting better, but the largemouth bass still outnumber them. Sometimes smallmouths in the 4 to 5 pound range are caught, and some nice Chain Pickerel are caught also. We generally use suspending jerk-baits, such as a Rapala, or a Rogue, in shad patterns, for the largemouth and Chain Pickerel early in the year. Muskies have been stocked also, and in early 1991, the state started stocking Tiger Muskies also. I don't generally fish for them myself, but friends and other anglers tell me that they are doing well. Greenwood is loaded with panfish, especially white perch, and they catch a lot in the 1-2 pound range. The main forage base is alewife, and panfish, along with Golden Shiners, and various minnows. Best Times and Locations The best times for Largemouth bass is in the spring, starting in April, or when the water reaches about 50 degrees. As soon as the water reaches about 53-55 degrees, the bass move to the shallows. The bays and coves are loaded with stumps and weeds, and they turn on first. We have had good luck in the past fishing the two channels at Greenwood Lake Village, and west of Fox Island. We start working the cover in these areas with lipless crankbaits, usually in shad patterns. The bass usually start spawning in early May, and it lasts until the middle of June. Floating Rapalas, soft Jerk-baits, and Senkos work the best. Although we have taken them on lizards and tubes also. The bass in Greenwood like weed beds, but avoid the ones that have been treated, as they don't produce well. We stay on the outside edges in about 10-12 feet of water, and the areas around Storms Island and north of Fox Island, are the best. Another good location is the shallow beds west of Fox Island, and north of Chapel Island. We use a lot of topwater baits here in the summer, and have had the best results with Zara Spooks, Nip-A-Dee-Dees, and Terminator buzzbaits, at dawn and dusk. During the day, we like to use Senkos, or 4' worms, and cast them to the edges of the grass, and in pockets. Docks and piers hold bass all day long. Try skipping a Senko or worm as far back under the docks into the shaded areas as possible. The farther back the better. If you are after smallmouth bass, concentrate on the deeper, rockier, New York portions of the lake. Smallmouth bass seem to like the combinations of weeds and rocks, especially on points. The 10-12 foot depths, on the drop-offs, where there is a gravel bottom work the best. We have caught some nice smallmouths at night also, by casting small topwater baits, such as Pop-R's. Early in the mornings, you will do well with a 1/2 ounce Rat-L-Trap in about 2-6 feet of water, where there is a gravel bottom. You can get a lot of good information about Greenwood from the local tackle stores, and some have maps with GPS locations. Remember to practice Catch, Photo, and Release, and there will be great fishing in Greenwood for many years to come Steve Vonbrandt S&K Guide Service / Life member B.A.S.S./N.A.F.C./B.B.R.C./ 1998 B.B.W.C.DE  Aug 5, 2003; 08:53PM - 'A DAY ON THE LAKE With Kurt vonbrandt'  Category:  Freshwater Bass Fishing Tips  Author Name:  Steve vonBrandt/S&K Guide Service  Author E-mail:  swvbbass@aol.com Tip&Trick Description 1: A Day On The Lake with Kurt vonBrandt By Steve VonBrandt I know many of you have seen a column in Basssmaster magazine where they challenge a 'Pro,' to go to an unknown lake and they chronicle each hour with what the Pro was casting, where they were casting, and why, and see what they can do, and end up with each day. Most of the lakes they have them fish, are always bigger than anything in Delaware, and most of Maryland. They are better than our lakes to begin with, once you have progressed to the level of fishing where you can always catch some fish, wherever you go, no matter how notoriously bad of a lake it is; and many times catching & landing, some quite large fish from places where most people never even see bass over 3 pounds, and when they do, they think they are five. I am or course referring to here in the Northeast, such as Delaware, Maryland, New Jersey, and Pennsylvania. So I challenged Kurt vonBrandt, of S&K Guide Service, to a day on a lake we will call 'Lake G,' in New Castle County, DE. This is a public lake that is within reach of Wilmington, and Dover, in about 45 minutes. It has a shallow, muddy, muck bottom, with most of the pads so high and thick, you can't reasonably fish them. Add to that, it is the color of chocolate milk, and had a water temperature of 62-66 degrees throughout the day that we were there. There is no deeper spot in the lake than 4 feet, in the main body, and the rest is all 1 1/2 to 2 feet deep, Everywhere that is, except for the shore, which is 5-12 inches! A front is getting ready to move through, and it rained the day and night before we arrived, for several hours. Kurt vonBrandt has a Spinnerbait, Buzzbait, 2 different makes and colors of tube baits, a Senko, and a crankbait rigged on 7 foot 'G.Loomis'and 'St.Croix' rods, with 'Shimano' and 'Daiwa'reels, spooled with 14-30 pound test line by 'Berkley 'and' Spiderline'. He has 2 spinning rods rigged with a 3 inch MisterTwister Grub on 12 pound test, and a 4' 'Centipede' in watermelon on the other. 'THE TAKE OFF' 6:45 am.-We arrive at the lake, with no boats there. We launch and start fishing. 7:15 am.- I decide that in a shallow muddy lake, with that water temperature, and the angle of the sun this time of year, and being that all the other fish were fairly active and large in the rivers, I put on a buzzbait, as I felt that would be a good search bait for me in the back, doing most of the observing and filming. 7:28 am. -Kurt vonBrandt is using a Terminator Spinnerbait in 3/8 ounce, double willow blades, with a Golden Shiner Skirt,: a bass swirls at the bait in 8 inches of water, but misses, Kurt immediately throws a Gary Yamamoto 'IKA' tube, right where it swirled at the buzzbait. He does this several times, but it doesn't strike. He said,' I know there's bass in this area now. so I have to figure out what they are doing right?' He then moved the boat into shallow water about 20 feet ahead, being extremely quiet with the trolling motor. He said, 'I need to see if they are on beds, or are making beds, or traveling together, and if there are any baitfish fry in the area' I questioned him further, while throwing the buzzbait and a spinnerbait in the pads. I said 64 or 65 degrees is traditionally thought of as an almost perfect temperature to catch some prespawn bass on spinnerbaits, Buzzbaits, walking baits,( Jerkbaits, if it was clear enough), Flukes, jigs, in wood/pad combinations; that should be deadly on these bass out here in the deeper pads on the edges near the channel, and in the mouths of little bays and inlets. He said 'I think you are right normally, but because this is so shallow all over, and always muddy, and the same depth, and I think that because of this, the bass need to spawn sooner, because of the lack of places to do this successfully later, as the pads grow up so high above the surface, and are so dense, that it is almost impossible for the sun, or anything to reach them, in this 1-2 foot jungle. I think after generations of spawning here unsuccessfully many times, that they (meaning the guarding males, and the larger females), ' have been programed to just go on beds earlier than some other lakes, or even most rivers, but I think they are in closer to the shores, in whatever bottom is the hardest, and has the best water conditions, whether it is on the North shore or not.' I was skeptical, but we went in anyway, me switching back and forth between the buzzbait, Fluke, and spinnerbait as we went in through the pads. He moved into within 20 feet of shore, and was throwing a 5 inch 'Senko,' and a 'IKA' Tube, and a Spinnerbait. 8:10 am.-Kurt vonBrandt lands a 1 1/2 pound bass on the spinnerbait, he says 'It's a male' guarding or even feeding on what has hatched'. 8:15 am.- I hook a 2 pound bass in the pads on a buzzbait, the water temperature is 66. 8:30 am.-Another bass in the shallow shore mixed with pads and wood swirls at the buzzbait, but doesn't get it. It is too thick to use a trailer hook. 8:45 am. -Kurt vonBrandt lands a small bass on a Senko. He says 'They're in this area.' If I could see their beds, this would be easier.' 9:05 am.-Kurt vonBrandt lands a bass on a 'Sala Tube' back in 8 inches of water. It is 14 inches long. He says' Another male, I know these females are close, but all the area is the same. I think the bigger fish will be in the best areas, on the shore with sun most of the day, and some kind of wood mixing with pads and grasses.' He sees a Carp about 15 pounds, jump out of the water in front of the boat, he says 'Sometimes the carp are with those bass!' 10:25 am.- I catch a 2 pound bass on the buzzbait in real shallow wood,. 10:32 am.- Kurt vonBrandt throws a Rat, then a Tournament frog, in some unconventional ways, and Says 'I just had to prove to myself that they weren't out here in the pads'. He throws a spinnerbait in the area for a few minutes. 10:46 am.-Kurt vonBrandt sets the hook, and lands a 3 pound bass from the shallow wood on a 'IKA' Tube in smoke. He says 'I saw that move, I know they're in there on beds, or even finished!' I said 'Do you really think that all the bass are in that shallow water, and some of them are already on and even off the beds?' He said, I have seen times when the bigger bass were on beds as soon as the water temperatures got to a steady temperature of 60-65 degrees, with the sun at the proper angle.' 11:45 am.- we work the outside edges of the channel on the way to some of the other shallow wood in the lower half of the lake. Kurt vonBrandt throws a spinnerbait, and a 'Sala' Tube into the pads. I throw a Chartreuse Mann's Baby 1-minus, no takers. 12:05 pm.-My arms are starting to hurt from repetitious casting, but I bear down, and keep fan casting the area. Kurt vonBrandt flips a tube into a tree in 6 inches of water, a catches another 1 1/2 pounder. He fishes the area hard for the females, but no takers. 1:06 pm.- The wind starts blowing harder, and it starts to drizzle a little; Kurt vonBrandt sets the hook on a 2 pounder, and says' That female's in here somewhere'. 1:28 pm..- We work the edges of the road, and dam with spinnerbaits, 'Senko's', and 'Sala' Tubes'. Kurt vonBrandt sets the hook on another 1 1/2 pound bass. What's that? he says, 5 fish at about 11 or 12 pounds? I say 'Somewhere in there.' He says, that's not good enough, I need a kicker fish now.' 1:55 pm.- I keep alternating between a fluke, crankbait, and buzzbait, but no takers. 2:00 pm.- Kurt vonBrandt says' I wouldn't have much time left now if this were a tournament, I need a bigger female.' He moves the boat into position of a large laydown, one of the few in the lake, and makes 10 or 15 casts down each limb of the tree. He says,' this is the spot, you just have to present it to them at different angles, and speeds, and keep bumping the logs.' 2:05 pm.-Kurt vonBrandt says' OH YES!', and as I turn, he says 'Get the Net,' I see the bass, and it is at least 5 pounds. He fights it through the pads with a 7 foot Medium-Heavy action St.Croix rod with 25 pound test Berkley Iron Silk. I net the bass, and bring it into the boat. 2:07 pm. -We take several still photos and video shots, after weighing and measuring it. It was 22 1/4 inches long, and weighed 6.4 lbs. It was a female, and appeared to have laid the eggs. The belly was still big though, so without damaging the fish, we forewent further inspection and released it. He said 'There's the kicker.' Now I would be going in with what, say 5 fish at 15 or 16 pounds?' 2:15 pm.- Kurt works an identical piece of cover a few yards up and lands another nice bass of about 2 pounds. 2:45 pm.- He says' If I had figured that out a little sooner, we could have upped the total by a few more, maybe some bigger females earlier.' 3:00 pm.- We leave for the office to S&K Guide Service, and get ready for a client in the morning. Kurt is a great guide, and will be moving up through the ranks of bass fishing soon enough. When he was 18 years old, he had already won minor club tournaments, and the Delaware State Sportfishing Tournament, many times, and was reading and learning about bass, the other 150 or so days a year he wasn't fishing. In 1999, we fished over 200 days a year, and guided a little, and started entering more team and local tournaments. Kurt caught on quickly, and won the 1999 Big Bass World Championship, placed 3rd and 5th in several other tournaments, and also won the largest bass that year for Delaware. In 2000, we concentrated more on refining his techniques in public and private lakes, and rivers, such as the Potomac River in Maryland, the Elk, Northeast, and Bohemia, and the Nanticoke river in Delaware. We also took a few trips to the Withlocoochee and the St.johns River in Florida, with some other trips to Stick Marsh, and some other famous, and not so famous Florida Lakes and Ponds. He was able to figure out what to do quickly, and learned all I could teach him by 2000. He then entered the 'RED MAN TOURNAMENTS,' now the 'Walmart Bass Fishing League,' and finished 3rd for the entire year, besides winning at the 'Potomac Super Tournament' and taking Big Bass honors with a 5 pound largemouth! He then qualified in the finals at 'Lake Gaston.', and went on to win the 2001 Big Bass World Championship/DE, and competed in the finals at 'Table Rock Lake' in Missouri. He also won the Delaware State Sportfishing Tournament again, and has caught, and guided to over 500 bass in Delaware, Maryland, New Jersey, and New York, in the last 5 years, that were over 5 pounds, and gained first acceptance into the 'Everstart' events. He has been guiding again this year, while fishing some BFL Events, and some Team Tournaments, and still managed to find enough time to take care of the house, plan a wedding, and get married. Look out for Kurt vonBrandt as I start to guide more and more, and he takes over the tournament end. Expect to see him having a prominent role in bass fishing in the years to come. I have caught my fair share of bass over the last 35 years, some just ounces off the State Record in several species, from Delaware to California. I have fished with some guys that were pretty darn good, but Kurt vonBrandt is a fishing machine!!., He also has a natural ability to read the fish and the water conditions, and he never stops. Look out, there's a new kid on the block!  Aug 5, 2003; 08:48PM - LOCAL HANGOUTS  Category:  Freshwater Bass Fishing Tips  Author Name:  Steve vonBrandt  Author E-mail:  Swvbbass@aol.com Tip&Trick Description 1: Local Hangouts By Steve VonBrandt All experienced anglers know that on specific bodies of water, there are always certain spots that produce the best bass year after year. When you have fished your best spot, and it is unproductive, do you move to another spot, or stay there hoping for the bass that you know are there to start hitting? In my 35 years of experience, I have found that you should leave a reliable spot only after you have tried your best, with a variety of time proven baits. This has been proven to me over and over, on a variety of Lakes and Rivers in the country. More times than I can remember, we came right in behind another angler and caught bass right out of the area that they just worked with only one bait, and moved on. The top places to catch bass on almost any lake in the country are Docks, Sloping Gravel/Sand Points, Shoreline Drop-offs, and Dense Cover near deep water. The dense cover such as hyacinth, milfoil, Hydrilla, different varieties of pads, reeds and other grasses, are one of the best areas to big bass. The drop-offs with rocky, sandy, and/or gravel points running into deeper water, with some other structure mixed in at the ends of the points, seems best, and of course boat docks and piers. Never overlook the docks and piers. We have had many a slow day on the Sassafras and Nanticoke, only to switch lures and presentations, in the marinas and boat docks, and catch that one kicker fish or sometimes the biggest bass of the day. If you check most any pro bass fisherman's outfits, you will usually see these 5 lures tied on, (provided you can get a look at them). They will be a buzzbait, a crankbait, a spinnerbait, a Carolina and/or Drop-Shot rig, and a Jig. There will be many other rods, and other lures ready to use but, these are the mainstay of baits for most any situation in the country. The following strategies should help you thoroughly cover the water from top to bottom. DROP-OFF SHORES / GRAVEL POINTS: I always look at the way the land around the lake goes into the water. That land usually continues out into the water the same way. Move to within about 25-35 feet from shore, and cast directly to the area with a buzzbait, cutting the water like a piece of pie, over and over, at different speeds and angles. Next, cast the spinnerbait against the shore and work the area at different depths and speeds. Then do the same thing with the crankbait. I use a deep diver for this so it can get down quickly and bounce off rocks, sand, stumps, on the bottom, or mid-depth. I then cast the same area with a Carolina rig, with a French Fry worm, a cut-tail worm, or a Senko. I change boat positions often to work this and the other baits at many angles to the drop-off shore. I stair-step the jig down any rock ledges, and crawl/hop it down the edge of the point where it meets deeper water. I use a smaller Terminator jig for this. On the Gravel/Sandy points, I do the same thing as when I'm Drop-off shores. The color of the water should dictate what color baits to use. If the water is muddy, use louder baits, in black,black/red, Black/Brown combinations; if the water is clear, I pick more natural colors for the baits, and a less noisy model. DENSE COVER: This is my favorite type of cover to work. First I cast a buzzbait wherever possible, working it in and out of cover at varies angles and retrieves. When the water is really calm, I throw a real small buzzbait that works very slowly on the surface. I have clear skirts, pearl skirts, and other subtle natural colors that I can easily switch. I then throw the spinnerbait, working it in and out of the pockets in the pads, making it turn quickly, then flutter down, and even bulge the surface. I work it a variety of ways until the bass dictate what they want to me. When in the River I make sure I bump into every limb of the tree with the bait at every angle before going to the next bait. If they don't hit a Fat bodied crankbait around the edges, or dead sticked in the open pockets, then I switch to a Tournament Frog, or Rat, and work this in a variety of conventional and unconventional ways. If this is a good area, and I don't get any hits with these baits, then I would throw the Carolina rig and the jig around the edges of the cover, and right into any pockets in the cover. DOCKS: These areas always produced for us on sunny days, whether it was in the river or a lake, especially in the summer and early fall. You should approach the docks quietly, and start to work them from farther away with each lure type. Only when they don't hit these other baits first, should you then move in with the jig and Senko, and flip each piling on the dock, then skip the Senko under the dock as far as possible. There are many more tactics you could try if you aren't getting any takers from your best spots, but these are the basics that you should practice every time you go to get into the habit of doing these things. It will become second nature, and you will notice the results in your local or club tournament wins, or your recreational fishing alike.  Aug 5, 2003; 11:53AM - Muddy Water Baits  Category:  Freshwater Bass Fishing Tips  Author Name:  Steve vonBrandt/S&K Guide Service  Author E-mail:  swvbbass@aol.com Tip&Trick Description 1: Muddy Water Baits By Steve VonBrandt Nothing ruins the occasional fishing trip more than driving a long distance to your favorite spot, only to find out it’s been raining for the last few weeks and the water is the color of Chocolate milk! Many years ago, I was like most weekend anglers, and would immediately try to find another lake or river that might be a little more clear, or just turn around and go home. But I found over the last 20 years, that it isn’t necessary to give up so quickly on muddy water. There are many times when a creek arm, or a certain portion of the lake or river isn’t as muddy, or there is a transition zone where it goes from muddy to stained, which can be a good area, but, even if there is no clearer water, there are many things you can do. Most gamefish react the same way to muddy water, they go shallow and they move closer to structure. This could mean a lot of different types of structure, such as brushpiles, laydowns, rocks, stump fields, pads on shallow flats, anything! When the bas are holding tight to cover, because of low visibility, the lure presentations sometimes need to be precise, such as when flipping a log or tree roots with a jig. Bellow are the 6 basic choices you should have rigged for fishing muddy waters. Plastic Worms: I know this sounds like a strange choice, but a lot of times when bass are holding real tight to cover, a larger, bulkier worm, with some rattle inserted, possibly with a paddle tail, worked real close in the cover, can work well. I used a black or a black/red combination in muddy water. I also use the new Big 7 inch Senko that is out now, and drop it right into heavier cover. I have been using the new Cut-Tail worm for this also. Vibrating Rattlers: These baits such as the Bill Lewis Rat-L-Trap, Cotton Bordell, Diamond Shad, or the Rattlin’ Rapalas, are excellent choices for probing different depths of muddy water, and where muddy changes to stained. The noise and vibrations of these baits, along with a realistic shad shape, make these great baits and stained to muddy water. Crankbaits: I use a lot of the real fat bodied crankbaits in muddy water. I choose different baits with a wide wobble, and sometimes rattles. I usually stay with darker colors with red in muddy water. These colors with a wide wobble, are easier for bass to find. Spinnerbaits: The bass will be using their lateral line more in the muddy water, so a spinnerbait with a heavy pulse such as a Terminator night bait, with a black skirt, and Colorado blade, is a perfect choice. You could even add rattles to this bait, which I have had success with in the muddy rivers and lakes in the Northeast. I always use a single Colorado blade on the spinner baits in muddy water, but in stained, or warmer stained water, I do go to an Oklahoma Blade sometimes with good results. Topwaters: These are my favorite baits to use in muddy water. There are so many baits that shallow, muddy water bass will hit! The buzzbait worked slowly around cover will draw tremendous strikes. The walking type baits, such as a Zara Spook, and Fenwick walking baits, Jitterbugs, Crazy Crawlers, and a variety of other topwaters, including poppers with rattles, are excellent and exciting choices for muddy water bass. The bass will all be in water that is 1-4 feet deep, eliminating a lot of the water, making them easier to catch! Jigs: Jigs in Brown/Black or Blue/Black with a Zoom or uncle Josh trailer, with some rattles, are an excellent choice to flip into laydowns, and shallow stump fields, and of course on docks. Make repeated casts to give them a good look and provoke them. If you stick with these baits and methods the next time you run into muddy water, you will never be afraid to see it again. It will become a friend, as it has become to me.  Aug 5, 2003; 12:04AM - Spider Grubs A bait for all Seasons  Category:  Freshwater Bass Fishing Tips  Author Name:  Steve vonBrandt/S&K Guide Service  Author E-mail:  Swvbbass@aol.com Tip&Trick Description 1: Spider Grubs-A Bait For All Seasons By Steve VonBrandt Delaware and Maryland Ponds, Lakes, and Rivers are receiving more and more pressure as each year goes by, not just from weekend anglers, but tournament fishing as well. If you apply some new tactics with these Spider Grubs, you can be more productive in your recreational and tournament fishing alike. Surprisingly, this deadly soft plastic bait is not a staple in everyone's tackle box, but in many other states, it is a long time favorite lure when the going gets tough. Several companies make Spider grubs, but I prefer the ones made by 'Gary Yamamoto Custom Baits' the best. The grubs come in a variety of colors and sizes, from two to five inches long. They are absolutely deadly on spring largemouth and smallmouth bass alike. Most anglers like to use them on jig heads, and this is an extremely effective method, but I also like to rig them Texas style. The grub resembles a darting crawfish depending on how you fish it. It is the most effective in clear water, but also produces bass in stained and muddy water also. The lure is compact like a jig and pig, as versatile as a worm, can be fished vertically or horizontally, fast or slow. You can pitch it, flip it, swim it, hop it, or drag it on the bottom. Here are some of the ways I like to fish it in Delaware and Maryland waters, and elsewhere throughout the country, that really produce bass well. Search Tool When searching for bass, you want to try to cover the water quickly. The Spider grub is a great search tool when you're looking for bass that are feeding on crawfish around scattered weeds, and rocks on shallow flats like the Susquehanna, or similar shallow areas. You can fish it faster than a jig, cover the water quickly, and trigger more reaction strikes, The earth tone colors are easy to match with the forage and blend in well with the surroundings. This is critical in clear water, when the bass rely more on sight. Sometimes I like to fish it fast, with an erratic, jerk bait type motion. The lure is always moving, but on or near the bottom. When I fish the open flats with scattered grass, I rig it on a light jighead, or if the cover is thicker, I rig it Texas style. I found that I land more fish If the hook is exposed, and if it becomes hooked on weeds occasionally, I jerk it free, sometimes causing a reaction strike. I like to use 1/8 ounce or 1/4 ounce jigheads, depending on the depth of the water, wind, currents, or how hard it is to keep on the bottom. I also prefer to fish them on a 61/2 to 7 foot spinning rod with a medium action soft tip, in graphite. Using 6-8 pound test Stren line. Sometimes you can go to 10 pound line, depending on the cover. The light line gives the bait more action, and is less likely to hang up in the weeds. I have used these successfully on the grass flats in the Potomac River and on the Susquehanna flats. Working it the right way takes some practice. You want the lure to scoot along in short bursts, on or near the bottom, without making excessive hops. Don't pull it too hard, or you will lose contact with the bottom. Keep the rod low to the water, and on the side of the boat so the wind doesn't bow the line, and ruin the action of the bait. Keep contact with the bait at all times, because many of the strikes will feel mushy or heavy like it is on grass, but most of the time when I set the hook, it is a bass. If it is just weeds, it pulls free and sometimes triggers a strike. Different Techniques Swimming the Grub-sometimes I swim the grub like a jerk bait. Once in a tournament the bass were ignoring the jerk bait, so I switched to the spider grub, and fished it erratically over the weeds, stopping it occasionally. This triggered the strikes that I needed to win. 15 pounds of bass slammed the spider grub while ignoring the other jerkbaits and crankbaits that were being worked in the same area. Dragging the Grub-sometimes when I am fishing on a long, sandy, gravel point, I use a stand up jighead and just pull it slowly on the bottom. I work it very slow, and maintain contact with the bottom all the time. Also, I Carolina-Rig the bait, and when I feel it hit rocks or heavy cover, I start shaking the line, and this cause strikes to occur much of the time. This has been working reel well in lakes in Delaware, Maryland, New Jersey, and Pennsylvania, but I have used it with success all over the country. Suspended Fish-Frequently after a cold-front moves through, bass will suspend over some structure. When this occurs, You can rig it Texas style, on a very light weight, or with no weight at all, and let it float down to the bottom. When conditions are tough, this works wonders at times by keeping the bait in front of the fish longer. I have even tried Drop-shotting this bait with success. There are more prone to strike the bait with this method, over a bait that moves quickly by them When you are searching for fish, and the going gets tough, this is the bait to try. I like to use a good spinning rod, such as G.Loomis or St.Croix, and a good reel like a Shimano or Daiwa. Sensitivity is very important, and a combination such as this improves your chances of catching them when they strike. This technique has worked well in clear lakes all over the Midwest, and in Pennsylvania, Delaware, and New Jersey. I caught a lot of nice bass using these methods at Table Rock Lake, in Missouri also. Whether it is spring, summer, fall, or winter, this is a bait for all seasons. Tip&Trick Description 2: Dead-Sticking Bass By Steve VonBrandt When the weather is nasty, be it in the early spring or late fall, many anglers miss out on some of the best bass fishing of the year. When their boats are in the garage, and their gear is stored away, other anglers in the know, cash in on some of the best fishing of the year using some special techniques. One of the most effective ways to catch big bass in colder water, is a technique known as 'Dead-Sticking.' The anglers who can brave the elements and employ these techniques, catch some of the largest bass of the year. 'Dead-Sticking Technique' The name of the technique tells it all. The technique actually involves more patience than action. Some of the best ways to present a bait using a Dead-Sticking technique are Drop-shotting, using a suspending jerkbait, and fluttering soft plastics to the bottom. These are great ways to tempt early season and late season bass. You won't catch a ton of bass in really cold water, but you can have a memorable day, and catch some of the larger bass of the year. When the water temperature is in the low to mid forties, shad and herring either die off in the winter, or they are so lethargic, that they are a good target for feeding bass. A lure that suspends at the level of the bass, or just falls slowly to the bottom, or in the case of the drop-shot, just sits still in the middle of the water column, offers a tempting imitation of a dying shad. 'Jerkbaits' There are many good Jerkbaits on the market today, but for dead-sticking techniques I like certain baits more than others.Smithwick Rogues, and Rapala Husky Jerks, are among my favorites. They are excellant baits for dead-sticking because they suspend. You can throw them out, reel them down, and play the waiting game. I have done this, and many times, while getting a drink, or grabbing something to eat, the bass have hit the bait. Sometimes it takes as long as a minute, or even two, before a bass will move up to a suspending bait and decide to hit it. I throw the baits way past the target, and jerk it down to where I think the bass are. In some bigger lakes and reservoirs I like to fish any standing timber they have available. I jerk the bait down, and then stop it right by a tree. I then let it sit as long as a minute before moving it again. Many times the bass will hit while it is sitting still, or when I first start to move it again. This happened to me quite a few times in Greenwood Lake and in Union Lake, in New Jersey. It is an excellent way to catch cold water bass in these and other lakes. I had great success with this method on Table Rock Lake, and Bull Shoals in Missouri, working the standing timber. It doesn't really matter if it's a tree, or rocks, or next to a dock. The trick is to let the bait sit there for as long as it takes, without moving it all. A lot of anglers are tempted to impart some action to the bait, but this is a mistake. This is the time to wait as long as you can stand it. Nerves of steel are required for this type of fishing. Another good location to use this technique is over old roadbeds, like in Spruce Run reservoir in New Jersey. I also like to use them along bluff walls, and across long tapering points. When the water starts to warm in the spring, or after a warm spell in the winter, bass will move up from the deeper water and suspend over or near these areas. These are ideal baits to use to entice them into striking. I like to find a long flat point, near a creek channel, where the deep water isn't far from the shallow water. This is where the bass will be, due to the fact that don't have to move very far, which is important this time of year, but especially true in the winter. When bass are suspending, if you throw a Carolina-rigged bait, you are actually fishing under the bass, if you use a crankbait, you're usually fishing too fast. This is why suspending Jerkbaits are ideal, because they get right down into the suspended bass and stay in one place. This is even more important in the winter, than the early spring. I make sure I fan cast the entire structure from many different angles. Many times the bass don't hit the bait until it is presented at just the right angle, and you won't know what that is until you make enough casts to start catching fish. The most strikes occur in about 8-10 feet of water, and suspending baits that go down to about 8 feet are the best. You need at least 2 feet of visibility for dead-sticking baits, and more is preferable. It is very important for them to be able to see it, as you are not moving the bait, and it doesn't make much noise. My best days deadsticking have been on lakes with a good degree of visibility. 'Dead-Sticking Soft Plastics' Most bass fisherman use Zoom Flukes, Bass Assassins, and other soft plastics, with a twitch, twitch, reel twitch action, like in the warmer months, but using these baits with a dead-sticking technique in the colder water, works wonders. Bass won't come up and hit these baits on or near the surface when it's cold, but they do hit it when it falls slowly to the bottom. It takes so much patience to work these baits right in cold water that most anglers don't have the patience it takes to work them properly. I use the bait on a unweighted 4/0 or 5/0 WG hook, and let it fall slowly to the bottom. The bait only sinks about 1 foot every 3-4 seconds, and this is perfect to imitate a dying shad. I have had the best luck with this in the winter, but in the very early spring, it can be effective also. I just cast it out next to the structure, whether it's a dock, or brushpile, or just over some type of structure that the bass are suspending on. I might twitch it a couple of times as it falls, but not too much, just enough to convince a bass that it is crippled or dying. It is a great bait for areas that have a lot of dying shad in the winter. One of the baits that I have had the most success with last year using these dead-sticking methods, is the Yamamoto 'Senko.' This bait is perfect to use dead-sticking. Although it is nothing more than a thin, straight piece of plastic when it is out of the water, it literally comes alive with just the right action to entice bass in colder water. It is perfect for letting sink slowly to the bottom, or for drop-shotting. Because of the salt content in these baits, it sinks a little faster than an unsalted lure. These baits are perfect for a lot of different situations, as long as you have to patience to let them sink. You really don't have to do anything to this lure, except let it sink slowly on a slack line. I rig them on a 2/0 or 3/0 Gamakatsu or Eagle Claw hook, on 14 pound test Spiderline Super Mono, or Stren. The trick is to pay very close attention to the line, sometimes you might feel a bite, but generally you will not. I just move the rod tip a little bit to see if I can feel the weight of the bass. If I can't, I just let it fall slowly to the bottom again. The action really comes when the bait is falling, so you have to lift the rod slowly, and let it fall back again as you work it across the bottom. There is even a new larger Senko for this year that I am looking forward to using. Even the new Cut-Tail worm may work well in these cold water situations, and I am looking forward to trying them out this year. 'Drop-Shotting' The best technique to come along for cold water or suspending bass is the Drop-Shot technique. Drop-Shotting can tempt bass into striking in the cold water at all times of the year. In the late winter, or very early spring, I just cast it out, let it hit the bottom, and tighten my line up. I use very little action at all. I don't really shake my rod tip or anything, I just let it sit. The less action the better! I do fish them around some structure also, and generally when I do this I work the bait with a little more action up to the cover, and then just let it sit when I get next to it. It is a very effective method in the winter or spring. I generally use a 3-4 inch bait on drop-shot rigs, but other baits have worked at different times. The hardest part of fishing in the winter or very early spring isn't the fishing itself, but motivating yourself to get out there and go when the weather is less than desirable. This is where the patience comes in, as it is very hard to sit still for long periods of time, and work the bait as slowly as is necessary to produce the strikes. Dead-Sticking really works if you remember exactly what it means. I like to use a high modulus graphite rod for the Dead-Sticking techniques, in a 6 1/2 to 7 foot length, with 12- 14 pound test line. I use spinning gear on little finesse baits, or a light line baitcaster. I use a baitcast rod, and up to 14-17 pound test line, in the deeper water, and for larger baits. Try theses techniques this year, and your recreational and tournament fishing will improve greatly. Tip&Trick Description 3: Drop Shotting in Depth By Steve VonBrandt Drop-shotting has been touted as one of the hottest 'new' techniques around, but it has been around since the mid 1970s. Drop-shotting has been revived in the last 5 years by Japanese anglers, who started using this technique to catch the bass in their clear, highly pressured lakes, but saltwater anglers, and panfisherman have been using this technique for many years to catch finicky fish suspended off the bottom. In the past few years, tournament anglers have adopted this technique to put hard to catch fish into the boat. It is an excellent technique for catching deep bass, and bass that are highly pressured in many of the tournament waters all over the US. The techniques that are used today have been refined, but the basic technique has remained the same for 30 years. BASIC TECHNIQUE The most simple explanation of this technique is that drop-shotting is a vertical presentation using light line, over top of fairly snag free structures. A sinker is tied to the line, which is usually 8-12 pound test, and a hook is tied on the line, about 1-3 feet above the weight. A soft plastic bait is usually nose hooked, and the rig is lowered to the depth of the fish. Most anglers use their electronics to locate the structure, baitfish, and bass, and the rig is brought into the area where the strikes are suspected. The baits action is controlled by a slight shaking, or gentle twitching of the rod tip. This is a very simple explanation, but drop-shotting can be much more refined and more complicated. The types of hooks used for this technique vary greatly with each individual anglers preference. There are many anglers out there today that prefer the short shanked style of hooks for drop-shotting. These are called 'Octopus' hooks. Many times these hooks are colored red, which many anglers believe bass see as a wounded bait. There are also many companies who manufacture pre-rigged drop-shot rigs, so you don't have to waste a lot of time tying them when you get on the water. Others prefer to tie the rigs themselves, but this is something that most do ahead of time, so they can save valuable time on the water for fishing. Most bass fisherman, myself included, prefer a straight shanked hook, because in places where there is current, these styles resist some of the line twisting that occurs in these situations. I like to use a ball-bearing swivel myself, which prevents most of the line twisting that can occur. I tie on a swivel as a connection between the line and leader. I always use a black swivel for this and other techniques in clearer water, as I believe it doesn't spook wary bass. I also use the smallest swivel I can get away with. I use a Superline for these techniques also, as I believe it aids in detecting subtle strikes in deeper water. I like a braided line such as 'Spiderline' for this. I always use the 'Spiderline' in stained water, but at places like Table Rock Lake in Missouri, and some other clear water areas around the country, I use a Fluorocarbon line, as the braids are easier for the bass to see. In most of the clear, deep, highland reservoirs that we fish, this is very important. Also, by using a fluorocarbon line, I can go up in size to a higher pound test without the bass being able to detect it. This type of fishing is really a 'Finesse' technique, a term which has been abused in recent years by many anglers. If you aren't delivering a small bait, on light line, in fairly deep water, then I don't really consider it finesse fishing. WEIGHTS You can use almost any kind of sinker for this technique, but I really like to use the 'quick release' style of weights. If the conditions on the water change, such as the wind picking up, the current increasing, or if you move to deeper water, you can quickly change to a heavier weight without having to retie. Some examples of this type of weight are the Duel Quick Change Lead Sinker, and the Zappu. These rigs are specifically tailored for drop-shotting techniques. Another really good type sinker that we found recently, is the Bakudan. This weight is ball shaped, as has a swivel-like line tie that reduces line twist. Line twist can sometimes be a problem with these rigs in wind, or deep water situations, and anything that helps reduce this is a definite plus. This type of weight also has something the others don't. It has a line clip that lets you change the distance between the lure and the weight, without having to retie. Another method for changing the sinker quickly is to simply tie a loop at the end of the drop-shot leader using an overhand surgeon's loop. To properly fish this, and other rigs, a knowledge of many different knots is recommended. Practice tying these knots in the off season, and it will increase the time you spend fishing, instead of tying. Another technique for drop-shotting, is to tie a regular bass jig, (usually a 1/4 to 3/4 of an ounce), at the leader end instead of the lead weight. With a surgeon's loop, different weight jigs can be changed quickly. Sometimes, the bass will hit the jig while you are using the drop-shot rig in your usual areas. Some anglers like to use a 'pinch-on' split shot also. You can also thread a bullet weight on the drop-shot leader, below the hook and lure, with a split shot squeezed on below the bullet weight to hold it in place. More weight can easily be added to this rig quickly, and you can spend more time fishing. TYING THE HOOKS Tying the hooks on drop-shots is a refined technique, and can be done a couple of ways. I always use a Palomar knot, beginning the knot on the hook point side. This is done before tying the rig on the sinker. This is done so that the hook lays at a right angle to the leader. This is a better way to get a good hookset on light biters. Another way can be to take the leader end, after the Palomar is tied, and thread it back through the hook eye, then attach the rig lead. This way the hook shank lays against the line, which I believe, improves hookups. PLASTIC BAITS I like to use a variety of soft plastics on these rigs, but most of the time, I use a small 4' finesse worm, or a Yamamoto 'Senko,' in the 4 inch size. Another good choice is the French Fry worm, and other types of hand poured plastic baits, such as a Roboworm. A small tube can also be effective, as can a Yamamoto spider grub. This is only one of many great finesse fishing techniques that produce bass when they are deep, or highly pressured. Learning the many different techniques available today, will help you put more bass into the boat when they are hard to catch. -  May 19, 2003; 09:01AM - Circle Hooks for Billfish  Category:  Trolling techniques  Author Name:  Carlos Morales  Author E-mail:  carlos@greatsailfishing.com Tip&Trick Description 1: What are “circle hooks”? To a fisherman seeing one for the first time you kind of wonder why anyone would use them or took time to invent them. They are similar in size to the more common “J” shaped hook but the opening is smaller and the barb points toward the body of the hook forming a circular shape, hence their name. At first glance it would appear fish would seldom be caught with circle hooks because the barb points the wrong way and the smaller than usual opening would difficult hooking anything. Surprise, surprise, first impressions are wrong. Depending which study an angler consults, circle hooks have been shown to be as effective or more effective than “J” hooks for catching all types of fish including billfish. Some studies say fishermen catch 60% more fish, others 100% more fish with circle hooks than with “J” hooks. Catching more fish is a bonus but the real advantage of circle hooks is that they are designed to hook a fish in the lip or corner of the mouth and this happens about 95% of the time, preventing “deep hooking” and “foul hooking”. Removing a circle hook is fast and easy, take a pair of pliers and rotate the hook out of the mouth. A “J” hook works by attaching itself wherever soft tissue is available. Normally, as soon as a fish bites, the first thing an angler does is “set the hook” by swiftly pulling the rod up and reeling in some line. This violent maneuver guarantees (anglers wish) that the barb of the hook will penetrate some soft tissue inside the mouth thus hooking the fish. Some fish, like billfish, have bony mouths so when the “J” hook tries to find purchase it just slides along and it either pops out of the mouth with the bait or attaches to the the upper palate, throat, pharynx, oesophagus or in the stomach. Anglers who practice catch and release know deep hook injuries, caused by any type of hook, are often mortal due to bleeding and that the hook sometimes is left inside the fish since its so deep there is no way to remove it without killing the fish. This is not a problem for the angler fishing for tasty, sought after fish like Dorado (dolphin), flounder, mangrove snapper, redfish, grouper, etc., since the whole point of going fishing is catching fish to eat. Here is where circle hooks come in. They have been around for years and were adopted in the late 1970’s for use by longline commercial fishing boats because not only did fish hook themselves but also studies showed they were 85% more effective than “J” hooks and the hooked fish were alive when the longline was retrieved. It is ironic that recreational anglers, to preserve fish, have recently adopted commercial fishing hooks known and used for their ability to catch large numbers of fish. We did say fish hooked themselves and we are not joking. When fishing using circle hooks and a fish takes the bait, do not set the hook! Wait. Count out one Mississippi, two Mississippi, etc., meditate about why there are no pregnant ladybugs, speculate on the price of bananas on Mars, just don’t set the hook! As the fish swims away the line becomes taut allowing the hook to rotate inside the fish’s mouth and lodge itself in the corner of the mouth. When the rod is flexed and the line taut that means the fish is hooked. Patience is very important because if the angler tries to set a circle hook the same way as a “J” hook, more often than not it will just be pulled out of the mouth of the fish. After a bite a mate on our boats grabs the rod but doesn’t do anything until the billfish swims away pulling the line taut and bending the rod, then he counts to five and “tests” whether the hook has been set by reeling in some line. This technique usually works very well. If a “self-hooking hook” was not good enough, circle hooks have other advantages. Once hooked, billfish tend to leap and violently shake their head side to side to try and loose the hook. It looks spectacular and anglers love it but “J” hooks are sometimes dislodged this way. The circle hooks round shape and the direction of the barb helps to prevent dislodgement so fish don’t de-hook as much when doing their aerial stunts. Another great advantage is that humans hook themselves less in the hand, ear and/or other body parts and clothes with circle hooks because the barb points toward the body of the hook. Not all circle hooks are created equal though. Besides “normal circle hooks” there are “offset circle hooks” whose barb does not point to the body of the hook but opens up, similar to a “J” hook’s. Depending on the degree that the barb is offset, 4 to 15 degrees, they become about as effective as “J” hooks at deep hooking as in their ability to catch fish. Like “J” hooks, “offset circle hooks” also cause more foul hooking of fish. Foul hooking means hooking a fish by the eye, gills, etc. Billfish depend on their eyesight to hunt and catch their prey so an eye wound seriously diminishes a billfish’s ability to feed and damaging the gills hampers the billfish’s survivability. Some circle hooks are made out of stainless steel and will not degrade with time so if a fish is lost with a stainless steel hook in it, that hook will be in the fish forever. In Guatemala “catch and release” for all billfish is the law. Since it’s beginning our company has adopted a circle hook only policy for bill fishing and releasing the fish unharmed is a very important goal. Guatemala has the best sailfishing in the world and we do our best to keep it that way. Happy fishing and tight lines!!  May 10, 2003; 01:57AM - Spinning Spinner  Category:  Trolling techniques  Author Name:  Dan  Author E-mail:  Fshmandan@aol.com Tip&Trick Description 1: Take apart a steelhead spin-and-glow. Slide a small bead down your leader on top of your hoochy ( plastic skirt ) slide on the spinner. Looks great trolling for halibut, stripers. Probably makes some noise too while going through the water.. Have fun  Mar 31, 2003; 10:31PM - Dorado Mahi-Mahi with Mango Salsa  Category:  De La Rue Aussi Fish Recipes  Author Name:  Chris De La Rue  Author E-mail:  De La Rue@2catchfish.com Tip&Trick Description 1: Rue’s Recipe… Dolphin Fish with Mango Salsa (Mahi Mahi / Dorado) Serves 4 4 x .350g Dolphin Fish Steaks “You may substitute the Dolphin fish with another high quality fish like Kingfish” 2 Large Mangoes 1 Large Bunch Cilantro The Messy Stuff… Peel the mangoes, cut them in half, and remove the pits. Cut one mango into 1-inch chunks and place in a blender. Add a pinch of salt, 12 cilantro leaves, and 2 tablespoons cold water. Process until very smooth. Set sauce aside at room temperature. Cut the remaining mango into 1/4-inch cubes, and put in a small bowl. Coarsely chop enough cilantro to yield 1/2 cup and add it to the mango. Add salt and pepper to taste. Stir and chill the mango salsa for up to 30 minutes. Scatter 1/2 teaspoon coarsely ground black peppercorns over one side of each Dolphin fish steaks, pressing firmly into the flesh. Sprinkle lightly with salt. Heat two medium non-stick skillets until very hot or use the solid plat side of your BBQ. Add the fish, pepper-side down, and cook for 3 to 4 minutes each side over high heat, until the fish is seared on the outside but still moist in the center. Remove from the heat. Let rest 1 minute. Serve the fish atop a mound of mango salsa and spoon mango sauce around the sides. Garnish with additional cilantro leaves and serve immediately. Special Note:- Cilantro leaves have a very pungent odor and are widely used in Mexican, Caribbean and Asian cooking. So you may have to go to a specialty shop to find them. It looks a bit like flat Italian parsley and in fact they are related. 1-15 | 16-30 | 31-36   Wanted | Fishing Store | Search Store | Photo Contest | Tips & Tricks Boats & Accessories | Fishing Reports | Mailing List | Contact Us | Tell a Friend Copyright (c) 2001-2010, www.2catchfish.com. All Rights Reserved. 2CatchFish v3.2 (Mar 27, 2006) Visit also www.2catchfish.com www.tocatchfish.com www.2catchbass.com www.2catchtuna.com www.2catchmarlin.com     this site is designed and developed by Stanimir Stanev